Some tips to help you put in cabinets easier.
Measure twice before ordering.
Floors are rarely perfectly level, but your cabinets should be. If you start at the floor’s high spot, you’ll need to shim most of the cabinets — easier than starting low and scribing and cutting the bases. But if the floor varies by an inch or more, starting high may make your counter too high.
To locate studs, use a stud detector or tap the wall until you hear a slightly higher pitch, then drive a finishing nail in an unobtrusive spot to check.
Upper cabinets should be hung on two studs whenever possible. Screw narrower cabinets to their neighbors, or cut the wall and screw and glue a 1x backing block in place.
Which comes first? Base cabinets give you a base to help support upper cabinets, but uppers first allows you to stand closer to your work.
If you’re going to cover the wall below the cabinets, screw a ledger board into the studs to help you support the upper cabinets on level. Remove doors, shelves and hardware to lighten the load.
Plumb walls? Right. You’ll have to shim sides (in the corner) and backs as necessary. Hide visible gaps between cabinets and crooked walls by positioning the cabinet and scribing the face-frame or end panel with a compass, starting at the widest space. If it’s out of plumb more than the excess material you have to work with, cover the gap with molding.
Predrill screw holes in line with studs, and partially install the screw in the cabinet before hoisting it into place. Use a screw gun or power drill.
Add stability by screwing cabinet face frames to their neighbors. Countersink and position screws near hinges so they’re not noticeable.