Before we get into power, here are some other useful handsaws.
Hacksaw: Held taut in a C-shaped frame, the replaceable blade should have 18-32 ppi for cutting metal. It’s also useful for wood trim. A tight blade and a steady hand prevent crooked cuts and binding.
Coping Saw: A shorter, fatter hacksaw-type-thing, with a very narrow, flexible blade good for cutting curves in thin stock.
Compass or Keyhole Saw: The small triangular blade is good for areas where other saws won’t fit.
While handsaws are essential, in most cases, a power saw is faster and does a better job.
(Note: Keep power saws out of reach of children, and always unplug them when not in use — even if you’re only leaving the room for a moment. Wear safety glasses when using any saw.)
Circular Saw: A good all-round tool good for most rough carpentry and some fine work. It cuts a lot faster than a handsaw, and allows you to rip long cuts through materials like plywood and two-by-fours. And the baseplate angles to cut bevels. You can even use it as a cutting tool for aluminum trim. Reverse a finishing blade so the teeth bite backwards, and you’ll make neater cuts in thin metal than you can with tin-snips.
Jig-saw: A jig-saw allows you to make intricate or curved cuts, to a depth of a few inches; different blades are available for different materials. Cut slowly, allowing the blade to cut ahead of your movement without forcing it. To start a cut in the middle of material, drill a hole or plunge the blade in by tipping the saw forward on its baseplate, and slowly lowering it to the wood.
More next time.