my Old Workshop

Routers – choose one, use one (Part 2 of 2)

Last time we gave you some pointers on choosing a router. Here are some tips on using your new toy.

Rule number 1: Move the router so that the bit rotates against the wood — left to right. This means the bit cuts into the wood rather than pulling the router along.

To avoid tearout, check the way the grain runs. If possible, cut with the grain. You can also help avoid tearout by removing a little bit of material with each pass — no more than 1/4″ on softwoods and 1/8″ on hardwoods. A number of passes, removing a little each time, is better than one pass taking it all off. If you find you’re having to really push the router along, or if you’re getting clogged with sawdust, you’re probably trying to take too much off.

When installing a bit, don’t turn your router upside down and drop in the bit. The fit won’t be as tight and the bit could loosen. Instead, lift it up a little before tightening.

If your collet allows it, use 1/2″ bits. They’re generally more stable.

It’s worth spending a little more on good bits. Carbide bits are much better than high speed steel (HSS) bits, which wear quickly and can burn the wood.

Wax your router sole and buff it well. It will glide smoothly over the wood.

Consider a router table. This allows you to mount your router upside down under the table, and allows you to move the stock against the router, giving you better stability, control and visibility. You can buy one or make your own.