Reciprocating Saw: The 45-magnum of portable power saws. Use it for demolition or tough cuts on an existing building. The pistoning blade (the industrial version of a jig-saw blade) plunge-cuts into wood, and with the right blade, you can cut straight through old wood, nails and shingles in one pass. Where fine cuts aren’t important, it’s a good power hacksaw.
Table Saw: Basically a circular saw set in a table, it makes long rip cuts neatly and easily. A rip fence guides the wood to keep your cuts accurate. (The integrity, strength and tuning ease of the fence is important.) The blade angles for bevels and an additional miter gauge lets you cut across wood at various angles. The blade also lowers so you can cut dadoes (grooves) with a standard or special blade. It’s good for general cabinet making and some trim work, but make sure you have enough room to set up and use the saw.
Miter or Chop Saw: Designed specifically for cutting angles in trim, a vertical blade is brought down into material. Tight tolerances make for a precise cut, with little tearout (splintering).
Radial Arm Saw: In this case, the blade is mounted on an arm, which can be swivelled for miter cuts. You position the wood against a fence and pull the blade toward you. The blade also angles for bevels, and can be set up for ripping (though a table saw does this better).
Compound Miter Saws: A variation on miter and radial arm saws, this fairly new breed is usually more portable. It comes in fixed and sliding head models, which tilt for bevels like a radial arm saw. Most stock is cut lying flat, as vertical height against the fence is limited.